The Right Angle Weave Stitch is very popular because of its architectural, building-block like features. The stitch path follows a Figure 8 configuration, where you first pursue the Figure 8 path in an upward then downward motion, and next continue the figure 8 in a downward then upward motion, and then repeat. This can get a little confusing when you first learn the stitch.

In our project here, we not only embellish the top of our RAW row, but we add edging embellishment to force the row to curve.

Whenever you create a piece of jewelry, it is important to try to anticipate how your choice of techniques and materials might positively or negatively affect how the piece moves and feels when worn, as well as your piece’s overall durability.

Towards this end, it is important to redefine your techniques and materials in architectural terms. The important term or concept we think about when we begin our piece is called a “Support System”. A support system is anything that gives your piece “jointedness”, that is, allows the piece to move easily when worn, and allows the piece to adapt to the negative forces any movement places on your piece, making your piece feel more comfortable to wear and more durable.

In our Right Angle Weave project, we need to understand how the Right Angle Weave stitch provides support.

In RAW, we create a RAW unit, usually consisting of 4 beads, and we connect this unit to the subsequent unit, through a shared bead. It is important that the beads within the single unit move as “one.” That means, we need to get them as tightly abutted against each other as possible.

When using bicone beads, for example, this is relatively easy. The bead shapes make them lock up tightly. But when using round beads, such as in this project, the beads do not lock up. In this project, we rely on our surface and edge embellishments to tighten things up.
In our shared bead, however, we want a looser connection to the next RAW unit.

We want our RAW units to move somewhat together, yet somewhat independently, in order to adequately adapt to the forces of movement as our bracelet is worn.

In this bracelet, we will be make a 6 ½” strip of RAW units. When we add a clasp, this will make the bracelet fit comfortably around a 7” wrist. The instructions detail steps for making a bracelet for a 7” wrist.
To make a shorter bracelet, say for a 6” wrist, we would use fewer RAW units. To make a longer bracelet, say for a 7 ½” wrist, we would add more RAW units.

In the CURVY Bracelet project...